Never Played Golf? How to Enjoy a Simulator From Day One
A golf simulator for non-golfers: try before you buy, the parts in plain English, starter budgets, a first-session plan and the settings that keep newcomers smiling.
Yes, you can have a good time on a golf simulator without knowing the first thing about golf. The launch monitor measures the ball at impact, the software works out where it flies and lands, and the scoring is handled for you. What you do need is a sensible plan: what to buy, how much room you have, and which game modes will keep people who have never held a club interested.
Most beginner advice starts with products. This page starts with the decisions a non-golfer actually faces, in order: whether to try one first, what the parts are, what the words on the screen mean, how to set the game up so it stays fun, and what a first session and a first month look like. It also covers the households for whom a simulator is a poor buy, which most guides leave out.
How we put this together: we compared published manufacturer specs, retailer listings and owner reports. Links may earn us a commission.
The short version for people who have never swung a club
There are three things to know before anything else. First, you will miss the ball sometimes. Even people who have played for years whiff on a simulator from time to time, and a bad first shot says nothing about your ability. Second, the first hour is the hardest. Expect a lot of swinging before anything feels right, and keep early sessions short so the fun outlasts the learning curve. Third, game modes matter more than data for a newcomer. A beginner cares whether the ball landed near the flag, not what the smash factor was, so pick games that give a clear goal.
The route that works for most households is to try a public bay first, then buy at the level that matches how often people will actually use the thing. Those who find the experience dull after one session have saved themselves a lot of money. Those who want to come back every weekend can move on to a home setup with more confidence. The three starter paths and a first-session plan are further down. If you want the mechanics, how golf simulators work explains how the sensors and software fit together.
Try a bay before you buy anything
Before spending serious money, spend an afternoon finding out whether anyone in the house wants to do this twice. There are a few kinds of places where you can try one. Indoor golf venues and simulator bars rent bays by the hour, so you pay for the time you use. Golf shops often have demo bays, and retailers sometimes run demo days. These events come and go and vary by city, so check locally before you plan a visit around one.
Some venues provide clubs, which means a trial needs no gear of your own. Ask about this when you book, along with how many people can share a bay, whether there is a minimum booking and how hourly rates change by time of day.
Use this checklist during the visit:
- Did the group stay engaged for a full hour, or did interest drop after twenty minutes?
- Which games did people ask to repeat? Those are the modes worth building a home setup around.
- Did anyone feel cramped, unsafe or nervous about where the ball was going?
- How loud was it in the bay, and could you still talk normally with the group?
- Which launch monitor and software does the bay run?
That last question matters more than it looks. If you know the bay uses a particular launch monitor and software, you can compare the experience with home options on like-for-like terms. You can also ask staff which setup suits a household like yours.
If nobody wants a second visit, a home simulator is unlikely to get used. A simulator in a spare room is a lot of money to leave unused, so it is worth asking whether the whole household enjoys the bay or only one person does.
Five parts of a setup, in plain English
A simulator looks like one object, but it is really five parts working together. The table below explains each one and gives a note for someone who has never bought one.
| Part | What it does | Beginner note |
|---|---|---|
| Launch monitor | Reads the ball, and sometimes the club, at impact using cameras, radar or both. Examples: Garmin Approach R10 (radar), Rapsodo MLM2PRO (two cameras plus radar) and SkyTrak+ (camera plus dual Doppler radar). | This is the one part to research properly. Almost every number on the screen comes from its data. |
| Hitting mat | The surface you stand on and hit from. | A mat that holds a rubber tee is enough to start. For how surfaces affect comfort and swing feel, see the golf simulator mat comfort and performance guide. |
| Screen or net | An impact screen shows the picture and stops the ball. A net is cheaper, but you watch the shot on a tablet or TV instead. | Impact screens feel more like the real thing. Nets suit tight budgets and rooms where a screen will not fit. |
| Projector or TV | Puts the course on the screen, or shows it on a display if you use a net. | Short-throw projectors sit closer to the screen and suit small rooms. |
| Software and device | A phone, tablet or PC app that draws the course. Titles include E6 Connect, GSPro and The Golf Club 2019. | Check that each title is still available before you buy. Some apps need a paid plan on top of the hardware. |
The launch monitor deserves the most attention because the others are mostly furniture around it. A camera unit reads the ball and club visually, while a radar unit reads the motion of the ball and club as it moves through the air. Some combine both, which can help with spin and with confirming what the other sensor saw. You do not need to understand the physics. You do need to know what the unit measures, and whether it measures the things you care about. For example, a radar unit that does not measure putting will leave putting to the software, and that matters if your household plans to spend a lot of time on the green.
All-in-one budget systems take a different route. OptiShot 2 uses an infrared sensor pad, and Phigolf uses a motion sensor, and some of its modes do not need a real ball at all. These systems trade accuracy for price and simplicity. Their numbers are less precise than what a good camera or radar unit gives you, so treat them as a fun way to practise rhythm and contact rather than as a precise training tool. Check current models before you buy, because lineups change and bundles differ between sellers.
Twelve golf words the screen will show you
The first time you look at the data panel, it can read like a foreign language. The table below covers the terms you will see most. You do not need to memorise all of them, and the note at the end explains which ones to ignore for now.
| Term | What it means | Why a newcomer should care |
|---|---|---|
| Carry | How far the ball flies in the air before it lands. | This is the number to watch first. |
| Total | Carry plus the roll after the ball lands. | Useful later, but roll depends on the course and the software, so do not chase it early on. |
| Ball speed and club speed | How fast the ball and the club head were moving at impact. | Faster is not automatically better. Clean contact matters more for a beginner. |
| Smash factor | Ball speed divided by club speed. It is a measure of how centred the strike was. | A higher figure generally means a cleaner strike, which is worth noticing when you hit one. |
| Launch angle | How steeply the ball leaves the face. | Too low and the ball tends to run along the ground. Too high and it can climb and lose distance. |
| Backspin | How fast the ball spins backwards after impact. | Spin affects how high the ball climbs and how long it hangs in the air. |
| Spin axis | The tilt of the spin, which sets the direction of the curve. | This explains why a shot curves, not just how much it spins. |
| Slice and hook | Big curves. For a right-handed golfer, a slice bends right and a hook bends left. | Most newcomers slice. It is normal, and you can ignore it for the first few weeks. |
| Fade and draw | Gentler versions of a slice and a hook. | A fade or draw suggests a controlled strike, which is a good sign. |
| Par, birdie and bogey | Scores relative to the expected number of strokes for a hole. | Par is the target. A bogey is one stroke over par, and a birdie is one under. |
| Mulligan and gimme | A mulligan is a free do-over, usually switchable in the settings. A gimme is a short putt counted as holed automatically. | Both keep play moving, which is the whole point for a newcomer. |
| Club path and face angle | The direction the club travels through impact, and where the face points. Together they explain the curve. | Only some launch monitors measure these. They are useful if you plan to take lessons. |
For the first month, you can safely ignore nearly everything in that table except carry and direction. Carry tells you how far the ball went, and direction tells you where it went. Those two numbers are enough to see whether you are improving. Once you can hit the ball consistently in roughly the right place, the other numbers start to mean something, and you can come back to them.
Three starter paths by how much you want to commit
Rather than a list of products, it helps to decide which path fits your household first, then choose hardware within that path. The prices below are approximate list prices at the time of writing. Bundles, promotions and membership terms change often, so check current pricing before you buy.
Path 1: curious and cautious (roughly $300 to $1,000 in hardware)
This path suits someone who is not yet sure the hobby will last. The usual setup is a budget sensor or entry launch monitor, a net and mat, and a phone or tablet app. Three options sit in this range:
- The Garmin Approach R10 is listed at around $600. It is portable radar that works with the Garmin Golf app on iOS and Android. It does not measure putting, so plan on using the software for that part of the game.
- The Rapsodo MLM2PRO is listed at $699.99. It combines two cameras with radar and has an iOS and Android app. Full features need a premium membership after the included period, so add that cost into your comparison before you decide.
- The OptiShot 2 comes in under $500, depending on the bundle. It uses an infrared sensor pad, so it belongs to a different category of accuracy from the two units above.
The sensible move on this path is to buy the cheapest setup that does the job, then upgrade once you know how often the room gets used. Our guides to the best golf simulators under $1,000 and the cheapest golf simulator go through the options at this level in more detail.
Path 2: family entertainment room (roughly $3,000 to $8,000 complete)
This path suits a household that plans to use the room every week, with several people taking turns. The launch monitor sits in the $2,000 to $3,000 band. SkyTrak+ is one example, listed at about $2,495 to $2,995 at the time of writing. Around it you add an enclosure or screen, a short-throw projector and a software plan. Simulation software usually needs a paid plan, so budget for it as an ongoing cost rather than a one-off. For complete packages at this level, see home golf simulator packages by budget.
Path 3: someone who wants to learn golf properly
This path suits a person who intends to take the game seriously and will pair the simulator with lessons. Prioritise a unit that reports club path and face angle, so a coach can use those numbers when explaining why a shot curves. Pair the purchase with a few lessons. A launch monitor on its own can show you what the ball did, but it cannot tell you why, and a coach can. Expect the cost to be higher than Path 1, but the feedback will be more useful for a learner.
Rules of thumb for all three paths
Buy for the household's realistic use, not for the most enthusiastic person on the day of purchase. A keen member of the family may play every day for a month, then lose interest. Plan the budget around the quieter weeks as well as the busy ones.
Remember the recurring costs. Software subscriptions, membership fees for launch monitor apps and course packs all add up. Read through golf simulator software subscription models before you commit to a system, and add the annual figure to the hardware total so you compare like with like.
See starter simulator optionsMeasure the room before you fall for a package
Space is the most common blocker for beginners. A package can look perfect on a website and then fail the moment it reaches a room with a beam overhead. Commonly quoted guide figures for a home setup are:
- Ceiling: about 9 ft for most adults, and 10 ft or more for tall players and full driver swings.
- Width: about 10 to 12 ft.
- Depth: roughly 12 to 15 ft from the hitting spot to the screen, plus space behind the golfer for camera units.
These are starting points, not promises. Each model has its own requirements, so check the maker's specifications for the unit you are considering. Radar units that sit behind the golfer need more depth, so the figure that matters for your purchase is the one for that model. For more on each dimension, see the guides on golf simulator room size and golf simulator ceiling height.
Worked example: a 12 ft by 18 ft garage bay with a 9 ft ceiling
Take a typical garage bay that measures 12 ft wide, 18 ft deep and 9 ft to the ceiling. Run it through the figures above:
- Width. At 12 ft wide, the room sits at the top of the 10 to 12 ft range. That is enough, but there is no spare width for a second person to stand comfortably beside the golfer.
- Ceiling. At 9 ft, the room meets the figure for most adults. It is fine for wedges and irons, but a tall player with a full driver swing is where clearance gets tight. Swing a driver in slow motion before you buy.
- Depth. Put the screen against the far wall. If the hitting spot sits 12 ft out from the screen, the 18 ft depth leaves about 6 ft behind the golfer for the launch monitor and a spectator. Push the hitting spot out to 15 ft and only about 3 ft remains, which is tight for a camera unit.
The verdict is that this room works well for a beginner with a 12 ft hitting distance, a net or screen, and a launch monitor placed behind the golfer with room to spare. It is a weaker fit for a tall driver swinger, and the 15 ft setup is only workable with a compact unit. If the figures came out differently for your room, the same arithmetic applies. Subtract the hitting distance from the depth, then check what is left behind the golfer against the unit's requirement.
A few practical checks help before you buy:
- Stand where the hitting spot would be, and swing a driver at half speed under the lowest light or beam in the room. Look for anything your club or hands would hit.
- Check the swing path behind you as well as in front. Radar units and spectators both need that space.
- Right- and left-handed players in the same house need either a centred hitting spot or extra width. If your household includes both, see setups for mixed-handed households.
Clubs, balls and house rules for a safe first month
Most beginner guides skip safety, and it is where first-timers most often get caught out. The points below are the ones worth settling before the first swing.
- Clubs. Start with a 7-iron, a wedge and a putter. A driver can wait until you can hit the 7-iron consistently. Beginner sets often sell for about $200 to $400, though prices change, so check current listings. Borrowed or second-hand clubs are fine to start with.
- Balls. Most launch monitors need real golf balls. Some radar units read best with balls that carry a metallic sticker, and some work better with specific models, so check the list for your unit. Foam balls suit a net in a tight space, but many launch monitors misread them or do not register them at all.
- Ricochet. Balls can bounce back off a tight screen or a hard frame, especially a mis-hit that lands near the edge. Padding and screen tension matter, and so does keeping everyone clear of the screen's edges.
- Spectators. Stand behind and to the side of the golfer, never in front of them or beside the ball line. A beginner's first shot is not always where you expect it to go.
- Children. Use adult supervision, shorter clubs and a clear rule that nobody walks into the hitting zone while someone is swinging. The rules work best when the adults keep to them too.
- Noise. Impact on a screen is loud, and it carries through walls. If the room shares a wall with a bedroom or a neighbour, find out how loud it gets before you commit. See how loud a golf simulator is for how the options compare.
Settings that keep newcomers smiling
The aim of the software settings is fun, not realism. Full-course realism is impressive, but it can punish a beginner who is still learning how to make clean contact. Start with settings that remove the frustrations that have nothing to do with skill.
- Turn wind off, and set greens to slow or easy.
- Use forward tees and turn mulligans on, so a bad shot does not ruin the hole.
- Set a generous gimme distance or auto-putt, so short putts do not stall play while everyone waits.
- Choose game modes over full rounds. Closest to the pin, long drive, target challenges and skills games give a clear goal in a few minutes, which suits a newcomer far better than an eighteen-hole round.
- Team formats such as scramble or best ball let a golfer and a non-golfer play together. The non-golfer can contribute without the experienced player carrying the whole score.
- Play three to six holes, not eighteen, in early sessions. Stopping early keeps the next session something to look forward to. For timing, see how long a golf simulator round takes.
- Some full packages add other sports, such as soccer, baseball and hockey. That suits guests who will never golf and still want to use the room. See multi-sport golf simulators for what is on offer.
Turn these settings back on or off as the group changes. Once a player can hit the ball reliably, wind and firmer greens add a real challenge. Adding those back in one at a time is a better way to progress than starting with the full difficulty and wondering why nobody enjoys it.
Your first session, minute by minute
A good first session is short and has a plan. Forty-five minutes is enough to learn the basics and finish while everyone still wants another go.
- Minutes 0 to 5. Check the launch monitor's position and alignment against the maker's guide. Run any calibration the app asks for. An uncalibrated unit can produce numbers that look wrong, so it pays to check before the first swing.
- Minutes 5 to 15. Hit half swings with a 7-iron on the driving range screen. The goal is contact, not distance. A clean strike that goes twenty yards is a better result than a big swing that tops the ball.
- Minutes 15 to 25. Move to three-quarter swings. Look only at carry and direction, and ignore the rest of the panel.
- Minutes 25 to 35. Play a closest-to-the-pin game with short clubs. This gives a clear target and a reason to focus on the shot in front of you.
- Minutes 35 to 45. Play two or three holes with mulligans on, then stop while it is still fun.
If the system has a replay or swing video, use it between shots. It is the quickest way to spot big errors, such as lifting the head before the ball has left the face. The video often shows things that are hard to feel during the swing, such as a head that drifts or a stance that changes mid-swing.
A four-week plan from first contact to a short round
A month of short, regular sessions does more for a beginner than one long weekend. The plan below assumes three or four sessions a week and no prior experience.
- Week 1. Three short sessions of 15 to 20 minutes, using only the 7-iron and the wedge. Focus on contact and on getting the ball to start in roughly the right direction.
- Week 2. Add a hybrid or fairway wood. Play a three-hole loop with friends, using forward tees and mulligans.
- Week 3. Try the driver. Learn the carry number for each club in your bag and write it down. A simple notebook page with seven or eight clubs is enough, and it turns the data into something you can use.
- Week 4. Play a nine-hole round on an easy course with gimmes on. Consider booking one lesson with a coach before the round, so the first real round has at least one thing you have worked on.
For a longer structure after the first month, see golf simulator practice plan. When you move from the screen to a real course, how to match simulator practice on course explains which habits transfer and which do not. Keep in mind that simulator scores may differ from real-course scores. The screen does not punish a bad lie, a gust of wind or a hazard you can see from the tee, so a good simulator round can feel very different outdoors. Are simulators easier than real golf covers that gap in more depth.
Who should not buy one yet
A simulator is not right for every household, and it helps to be honest about that before the purchase rather than after. The checklist below describes the cases where waiting, or choosing a cheaper route, makes more sense.
- Nobody in the house wanted a second trial session.
- The only available room is under about 8.5 ft high, and there is no plan to stick to short clubs.
- Shared walls or downstairs neighbours will hear every impact, and nobody has checked how loud it gets.
- The budget only stretches to hardware, with nothing left for a screen, a mat or a software plan. A launch monitor with no screen or software is a box of sensors.
- If you are unsure, start with a used unit or the lowest path. See buying a used golf simulator and is a golf simulator worth it before you spend the full amount.
What newcomers ask before saying yes
These are the questions beginners ask most often before they commit. The answers are short, and each one links to a deeper guide where it applies.
Will a simulator teach me to swing without lessons?
Screens show what the ball did and, on some units, the club path and face. They don't explain the cause the way a coach can. Plan two or three lessons early, then use the simulator to practise what the coach set.
Can kids use a home golf simulator safely?
Yes, with adult supervision, junior-length clubs and a marked no-go zone in front of and beside the golfer. Add padding on hard surfaces and stay aware of balls bouncing back off the screen frame. Teach children the rule that nobody walks into the hitting zone.
Do I need real golf balls, or will foam work?
Most launch monitors are designed around real balls. Some radar units read spin better with specific balls or a metallic sticker, so check your model first. Foam balls suit a net in tight spaces, but they often misread or don't register at all.
Can a golfer and a non-golfer play together fairly?
Use scramble or best-ball formats, forward tees for the newcomer and mulligans. Handicap settings help too, where the software offers them. That way the non-golfer can enjoy the round without falling far behind. For how those settings work, see golf simulator handicap system.
Does a simulator need an internet connection?
It depends on the app. Some need a connection for login, updates, online play or course downloads, while range modes may work offline. Check each app's requirements before you buy. See do golf simulators need internet for the details.
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