Cheapest DIY Golf Simulator: Itemized Parts and Prices

A DIY golf simulator can be built for a few hundred dollars or for several thousand, and most of the gap comes down to three choices: how you hit into the setup, whether the image is projected at full size, and which launch monitor sits in the middle. This page prices each of those choices line by line so you can see where the money goes.

Our three builds start with a net, a mat and a phone, add a projected impact screen and a PC, and then step up to a full bay. Every total here is a list-price range at time of writing, and retailers change them often, so check current pricing before you order. The sums we show are our own arithmetic on the figures listed in each section.

If you want the construction process rather than the parts list, our step-by-step build guide covers it. If you would rather buy than build, the cheapest ready-made simulators are the better comparison.

How we put this together: we compared published list prices and manufacturer specs, then checked each line against the others. Links on this page may earn us a commission.

Bottom line: three price floors

The table gives the approximate total for each build. Build B shows two figures because a capable computer you already own takes roughly $700 off that total.

Build	What it includes	Approx. total (list prices)
Build A	Hitting net, mat, budget launch monitor and a phone or tablet app	About $800 to $1,300
Build B	DIY frame, impact screen, side netting, budget launch monitor, short-throw 1080p projector and a PC	About $2,400 to $3,300, or about $1,700 to $2,600 with a computer you already own
Build C	Fuller DIY bay with enclosure, projector, launch monitor and software	About $5,000 to $6,000 with software included

Those totals are approximate and will drift with retailers and stock. Treat them as a planning range, then confirm each line before you buy.

The three builds in plain terms

Each build adds one layer to the one before it, so you can stop at the level that fits your room and your budget. The question to ask is not which build is best in general but which one gets you the practice you want for the money you have.

Build A: net, mat and a phone or tablet

Build A is the practice-first version. You get a hitting net, a mat and a budget launch monitor, and the monitor's app runs on a phone or tablet. There is no projector and no PC. If the app offers a small-screen course view, you can play courses on the tablet, but this build does not give you a life-size picture.

It suits renters, people with a garage they share with a car, and anyone who wants to find out whether the hobby sticks before spending more. Because the setup is so small, you can also move it when you need the space back.

Build B: projected impact screen on a shoestring

Build B is the first version that plays full courses at life-size scale. It adds a DIY frame, an impact screen, side netting, a budget launch monitor, a short-throw 1080p projector and a PC. If you already own a PC that meets the requirements in the computer line below, the total drops sharply.

This is the build the worked budget later on is based on, so it is the one to check against your own room and prices.

Build C: a fuller DIY bay

Common guidance puts a full DIY system at about $5,000 to $6,000 with software included. The price climbs because the computer runs $1,000 to $2,000, the mat and landing turf reach about $1,500 at the higher end, an enclosure with screen costs about $1,000, the launch monitor sits between $600 and $2,000, and the projector starts above $1,000.

Owning a capable computer saves about $1,000 at this level. A packaged enclosure such as Carl's Golf Sim Enclosure is one way to price the enclosure line, since it comes with the screen (check current pricing). Build C makes the most sense when you want a permanent bay you don't need to set up and take down each session.

Itemized parts list, line by line

This is the master table. Each row gives a price range per build and a note on where to save. Prices are approximate list prices and need checking at the point of purchase.

Part	Build A	Build B	Build C	Where to save
Launch monitor	Budget unit, about $600 to $700	Budget unit, about $600 to $700	$600 to $2,000	Pick the unit your room depth allows
Screen, frame and netting	Not needed	Frame $150 to $400, screen $200 to $450, netting $100 to $200	Enclosure with screen about $1,000	Polyester mesh screen; DIY frame
Mat and landing turf	Budget mat $100 to $300	Budget mat $100 to $300	Up to about $1,500 with landing turf	Not on the mat itself
Projector	Not needed	Short-throw 1080p, about $600 to $900	$1,000 and up	TV at first, if you have one
Computer	Phone or tablet	Used $500 to $900 or new $1,000 to $2,000, or one you own	$1,000 to $2,000, or one you own	Use a PC you already have
Software	Free bundled app	Free bundled app, or paid (GSPro about $250 per year)	Included in the total	Start with the free app
Cables, mounts and small parts	Padding and power strip, $50 to $100	$100 to $200 total	$100 to $200 total	Buy the HDMI cable once you know the run

Launch monitor line

Budget options at time of writing: the Garmin Approach R10 at about $600, a radar unit that sits behind the ball and needs room depth; the Rapsodo MLM2PRO at about $700 plus a yearly membership; the Square Golf at about $600, a camera unit that sits beside the ball; and the FlightScope Mevo Gen2, which you should check for current pricing.
Step-up options: the SkyTrak+ at about $2,995 and the FlightScope Mevo+ at about $2,000. Confirm both prices before you rely on them.
Our guides to budget launch monitors and monitors with no annual fee go further into the trade-offs.

The choice here sets the rest of the room layout. A radar unit like the R10 needs more depth behind the ball, so a short room may push you toward a camera unit, even if the camera model costs a little more in total.

Screen, frame and netting line

Impact screen alone: about $200 to $450 (check current pricing). Polyester mesh is a sensible price-to-performance choice.
DIY frame: $150 to $400 depending on material. The frame table below compares the options.
Side and ceiling netting: about $100 to $200. Use high-density netting anywhere a ball could strike.
Packaged enclosure with screen: about $1,000 (check current pricing).

Buying the screen and side nets separately lands close to the price of a cheap DIY enclosure, so the real saving from building comes from the frame and from choosing each part yourself. Our guide to making your own impact screen covers that option in detail.

Mat and landing turf line

Budget mat: $100 to $300.
Mid-range mat: $300 to $600.
Premium mat with landing turf: up to about $1,500 (check current pricing).

Bigger mats allow varied stances, and a level sub-base matters as much as the mat itself. A mat sitting on an uneven floor will feel different on every swing, which makes it hard to tell whether a bad shot came from your swing or the surface. Our hitting mat guide compares specific models.

Projector line

Short-throw 1080p models: around $600 to $900 (check current pricing).
Brighter or 4K models: $1,000 and up.
What to look for: 3,500 lumens or more, native 1080p or 4K, low input lag, lens shift or flexible placement, and keystone correction. Both 3LCD and DLP projectors are workable.
Brands you will see most often: BenQ, ViewSonic and Optoma. Check specific models before you buy, since lineups change.

A short-throw projector lets you mount it close to the screen, which is the main reason it fits a smaller room. Our projector guide by room and budget matches models to room sizes.

Computer line

Existing PC or laptop: an Intel i5 or i7 class CPU, a dedicated GPU (NVIDIA GTX or AMD Radeon RX class or newer), 8 to 16 GB of RAM, an SSD, and HDMI output at 1080p or 4K.
Mid-range Windows machines from the last three to four years usually run simulator software.
Used gaming PC or laptop: $500 to $900 (check current pricing). New: $1,000 to $2,000.

Build A skips this line entirely because its app runs on a phone or tablet. For a more detailed spec check, see our PC requirements guide.

Software line

Free apps bundled with many monitors are enough for range practice.
Paid options include GSPro (about $250 per year, check current pricing), the E6 Connect tiers, The Golf Club 2019 (about $995 one-time, though check current availability), Creative Golf and Perfect Golf.
Annual software spend runs from about $200 up to $3,000 depending on the package. Check current pricing.
Confirm that your launch monitor works with a given program before you buy it.

Cables, mounts and small parts line

Long HDMI cable (25 to 50 ft): about $20 to $50.
Projector ceiling mount: $30 to $80.
Zip ties, bungees, ball-strike padding and a power strip: $50 to $100.
Total: these add up, so budget about $100 to $200.

Compare budget launch monitors

Room check before you spend a dollar

Measure before you order anything. Parts bought for a room that can't hold them are the most expensive mistake in this whole list.

Swing space: about 10 x 12 ft for the swing and follow-through.
Ceiling height: 8 ft is often quoted, but taller players using a driver may need 9 to 10 ft. See our ceiling height guide.
Projector placement: allow 4 to 5 ft.
Launch monitor depth: radar units like the R10 sit several feet behind the ball and need extra depth, so check the maker's distance. Camera units beside the ball suit shorter rooms.
Layout: the screen usually goes on the short wall, with the mat pointing down the long axis.
Infrastructure: outlets near the projector and PC, ventilation, windows you can black out, and storage for nets and mats.

For the full room numbers, see our room size guide.

Frame materials priced and compared

The frame is the biggest DIY decision you will make, and it drives the cost of everything that attaches to it. A full DIY frame runs $150 to $400 depending on material. The table compares the three common options. Costs are relative rather than per material, so check current prices for the length you need.

Material	Cost	Weight	Durability	Portability
Wood (2x4 or plywood)	Affordable	Not rated here	Easy to customise; permanent once built	Stays where you build it
PVC	Cheapest of the three	Lightest	Flexes more; less durable	Easiest to move
Steel or iron pipe (or EMT conduit with fittings)	Check current pipe and fitting prices	Heavy	Stable and durable	Not very portable

Wood is the easiest material to customise, and it stays put once it is assembled. PVC is the lightest and cheapest option, but it flexes more under a swing and wears out sooner. Steel or iron pipe is stable and durable, but the weight makes it hard to move once it is built, so it suits a room you won't reconfigure.

Whatever material you pick, oversize the frame by 2 to 3 ft beyond the hitting area for safety. Paint gives a finished look. Kits such as the Shop Indoor Golf DIY enclosure kit, and the fittings and pipe kits from Carl's Place, can save you sourcing each part separately (check prices). For a full walkthrough of a custom build, see our custom enclosure build guide.

Worked example: a Build B budget

Here is a Build B total built from the line items above. The figures are illustrative, and the sums are our own arithmetic, so check each line against current pricing before you rely on the result.

Line item	Illustrative price
Camera launch monitor	$650
EMT or wood frame	$250
10 x 8 ft impact screen	$300
Side netting	$150
4 x 5 ft mat	$300
Short-throw 1080p projector	$700
Used gaming laptop	$700
HDMI cable, mount and small parts	$120
Total before software	$3,170

Without the laptop, because you already own a capable computer, the total drops to $2,470 ($3,170 minus $700). The projector and the computer each account for $700 of the $3,170, so those two lines are where the biggest decisions sit.

For software, the cost is $0 in year one if the bundled app does what you need. If you want GSPro, it adds about $250 for the first year (check current pricing). Over three years the software line runs from $0 to about $750 by our math, which is $250 multiplied by three for the paid option.

See ready-made budget simulators

Where cutting corners backfires

Some savings look sensible on a spreadsheet and cost more later. The list below sorts the parts where a cheap choice causes trouble from the parts where it doesn't matter much.

Mat: a thin mat can strain wrists and elbows and gives misleading feedback on contact. Spend here.
Screen and netting: a cheap screen can bounce balls back hard, and gaps in the netting let balls escape, which causes damage and injury.
Launch monitor and room depth: a radar unit in a short room is money spent on a sensor you can't position properly.
Fine to save on: the projector at first (a TV can stand in), the computer (use what you own), and decor and lighting.

For the mistakes that show up most in first builds, read our DIY mistakes to catch early guide before you buy.

Assembly order that avoids rework

The order below follows how the parts depend on each other. Each step assumes the one before it is finished, so skipping ahead usually means taking something apart later.

Measure and mark the hitting spot.
Build the frame and fit the impact screen with even tension.
Hang the side and ceiling netting.
Lay the mat on a flat, level base.
Place the launch monitor at the maker's recommended distance.
Mount and align the projector, then square the image.
Connect the PC by HDMI. Connect the launch monitor by its own cable, Bluetooth or Wi-Fi.
Install the software, set handedness and clubs, and calibrate the monitor.

For the full walkthrough of each step, see our step-by-step build guide.

Used, refurbished and open-box parts

Used gear can cut a build's cost, but the savings depend on the part. Frames, projectors and PCs are generally safer to buy second-hand. Screens, mats and launch monitors are where a used purchase most often goes wrong.

Part	Used verdict	What to check
Frame and pipe	Safer	Bends and fittings
Projector	Safer	Known lamp or laser hours
Gaming PC	Safer	The GPU model against the requirements above
Impact screen	Riskier	Wear and holes
Mat	Riskier	Packed-down turf
Launch monitor	Riskier	Whether the warranty and any subscription transfer to you

Refurbished launch monitors from the maker or an authorised dealer usually keep a warranty, though terms differ by brand, so read them before you buy. For more on second-hand gear, see our guide to buying used simulator equipment.

Upgrades in the order that pays off

Once the first build works, spend the next dollars in this order. Each step improves something you will notice on every session.

Better mat.
Paid software with more courses.
Brighter or short-throw projector.
Better launch monitor.
Sound and LED lighting over the hitting area.
Decor and turf flooring.

Before you start buying parts

These are the questions that usually come up before a first purchase.

Is a TV a workable stand-in for a projector and screen?

Yes, for a budget build. You hit into a net and show the software on a TV beside it. You lose life-size scale but save the projector and impact screen. For TV-based layouts, see our TV-based simulator setups.

Can I build a simulator with no launch monitor at all?

Not a true simulator, because without a sensor there is no ball data. Mat-based sensors such as the OptiShot 2 track club movement at low cost (check the current price), but they don't measure the ball. A launch monitor is what turns a net into a simulator.

How long does a DIY build take?

A frame, screen and netting usually take a weekend with two people. Software installation and calibration add time on top of that.

Is it cheaper to build or to buy a package?

Building can save money on the frame and screen. Buying the screen and side netting separately, though, costs nearly the same as a cheap DIY enclosure, so compare current prices on both before you commit. Our complete packages by budget page lays out the buy-side options.

Which part should I buy first?

Measure your room first, then choose the launch monitor. Radar units like the Garmin Approach R10 sit behind the ball and need more depth, while camera units like the Square Golf sit beside it, and that placement shapes the rest of the layout.

A Line-by-Line Budget for the Lowest-Cost DIY Golf Simulator That Still Plays Courses